The pages on this site are not meant to be a tutorial for restoring your own gauges, they are here to show the steps performed when you entrust us with your restoration work.

The first pictures show what a typical gauge looks like when we receive it.

The first thing we do is visually inspect it for damage, and then bench test it for accuracy. In this example the lower base mount bolt is bent.

This 76 Kawasaki KZ900 A4 Tachometer was tested at two different RPM’s and is accurate. Next step is to remove the stainless steel connector ring, and split the two halves.

This Tachometer is dented on the lower base mount and the inner and outer cones are dented also. All three require replacement.

Next we remove the needle and the faceplate.

Here we note that although the faceplate is faded, and has paint chipped away from the two mounting screws, it can be restored to look new. Careful inspection is given to the underneath of the faceplate, in search of cracks.

As you can see by another example, the cracks on the top side of the Kawasaki Z1 faceplate are barely noticeable.

However when turned over, they are very apparent. Faceplates that are cracked this way cannot be used. They will fail in short order.

The following  picture shows a stripped down drive unit.

Notice the round cylinder directly atop the spring. This is the internal ‘damper". If your gauge has a needle that "wanders",...at speed or RPM, and your cables are good,....this is the culprit. The damper itself holds oil, and cannot be fixed, unless this whole drive unit is replaced with one that works properly.

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